Training Your Dog to Eliminate Outdoors
By Stan Rawlinson
The Equipment You Will Need
1. A Crate
Also known as a kennel or carrier (you see them at airports as they are approved for flight) They are either plastic with wire windows, or are all wire, these type can be collapsed down and transported more easily. Therefore the wire style are my personal choice. They come in various sizes to fit all dogs (even Irish Wolfhounds) the tallest dog in the World.
Do you need one?
I believe they are almost a necessity in this day and age. If your dog lived in the wild, it would seek out a den where it could sleep and be secure free from predators and interference. Think of a crate as a portable den. Your dog will, if its presented correctly think of the crate as it's haven, and in times of stress or tiredness or just time out will seek it's den to settle in peace and quiet.
2. Food Treats
Something your dog can consume quickly, that does not create crumbs which will divert a dog’s attention. I tend to use cheese, venison tongue or heart (Burns) or Natures Menu chicken treats.
3. A Lead and Collar
A good leather, nylon or canvass collar and a lead that is at least five-foot long. I have designed and manufactured my own leads and collars which you can purchase from my website I dislike check chains,
Haiti ’s or chest harnesses. Halti’s and Harnesses do not train a dog, all they do is inhibit it from moving to far forward take the them off and the dog pulls just as much.. You can train nearly any dog to walk to heel within 5 minutes without the need to use any other form of restraint other than a Jingler see below..
As a former professional classically trained musician, I came to understand that sound can play a major part in behaviour and training. I therefore designed and developed a device called a Jingler. It works on sound therapy by distracting your dog momentarily from what it is doing,. The repetition of the jingle and either a change of direction or a command, conditions your dog so that it associates the noise with a command.. It is extremely helpful for numerous other training situations including walking to heel, nipping, jumping up, barking, lunging and some aggressions.
4. An Odour Eliminator
You can buy a commercial one or mix one part white vinegar to four parts water or in my case I use biological washing liquid or powder which breaks down the fatty acids and proteins and removes the smell, ten parts water to one part powder. If you can obtain it, a quick wipe over with surgical spirit afterwards finishes the job; this deters over-marking, they appear to dislike urinating over the surgical spirit.
5. The Crate
Mothers keep babies in a playpen when he/she can't be supervised? Dogs are natural den animals. They will seek out a den to feel protected and safe. It should be small and cosy, therefore do not buy a crate that is to big for your dog. However the dog should be able to turn round comfortably. Dogs will rarely soil their own beds therefore if you fill the crate with something like VetBed which can be washed regularly and dries very quickly. It allows any wet and dampness from your dog to be drawn through to the base in capillary action which deposits the moisture at the bottom of the crate. Do not put paper in the crate this only serves to stimulate the puppy to toilet in their . Cover the crate with a blanket to make it more den like.
Your first rule on toilet training is when your puppy or untrained dog is not supervised; he or she should be in the crate or a doggy play pen. .Teach your dog to enter on command. Begin by saying, "Kennel" "Bed" or any word you prefer. Place the dog in the crate, give a food reinforcement (a treat) after a few days start to lock the door but only for short periods, initially for 15 seconds and then release the dog and praise. The dog will start to associate the crate positively with food and treats and feel it is a good thing.
Gradually increaser the time you lock the door working up to an overnight stay. Never let the dog out if he is barking or whimpering. Wait until there is a lull in the noise then release, or you will only reinforce the fact that barking and whining works which will redouble his efforts. When you go out, leave on a talk or classical music radio station in another room NOT the same room, Hearing voices will help your dog not to feel so alone.
6. Establish Meal Periods
If you feed and water your dog on a schedule, your dog will eliminate on schedule. FREE FEEDING YOUR DOG WILL MAKE THE JOB OF HOUSE TRAINING MUCH MORE DIFFICULT...First, establish meal periods. three to four meal periods for young puppies and a single or a double meal period for adult dogs. The meal period should last for 10 minutes. During that time give the required amount of food and as much water as the dog wants. At the end of the meal period, remove the food whether or not the dog has eaten, unless instructed otherwise by your veterinarian. If the dog plays and does not eat, he will soon learn that the food will be taken away. This also helps to discourage picky eating habits later in life.
7. Place Your Dog on Commands
Many dog owners inadvertently teach their dogs to eliminate indoors. Each time they take their dog outside they wait for him to eliminate. As soon as he does, they bring him in. Most dogs, especially young ones, like the sights and smells of the outdoors. They quickly learn that as soon as they eliminate, they are taken back inside. They learn to hold it until they come inside to prolong the experience. Play with your dog after he has toileted
It makes better sense to train your dog to eliminate on command. Take your dog to "his spot" each time use a lead. As your dog begins to urinate, choose a word and say it repeatedly as the Behaviour is occurring (I say "busy") do this each time your dog urinates. After several weeks of hearing "busy" as he urinates, he will eventually act as a trigger for the behaviour. I use a different word for defecating as it requires a different set of muscles. Each time your dog finishes, praise him while offering a food reinforcement (a treat). When he has finished play a favourite game with him! If your dog fails to toilet in 5 minutes, take him back inside and crate him for a half-hour and then try again, keep repeating until he goes the really praise and treat.
Use an “instructive command” each time you take your dog outside say, "garden". He will soon learn what garden means, then if the dog inappropriately urinates inside, say "garden" and take him to his spot
"garden" then becomes an instructive command because it directs the dog to the appropriate elimination place.
There is a device called a pee pole which is a pheromone impregnated device that is supposed to aid toileting. I have mixed responses to this aid with some dogs it works well, particularly if you want them to go in a specific spot. With other dogs I find they pull them up and chew them, therefore they are useless in that circumstance.